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The Texas Perimeter Hike —Installment #10
“A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.”
— John Steinbeck, “Travels with Charley”
Outside of Fabens, Texas, on the morning of my birthday, an unexpected thing happened: a little black puppy jumped out of a bush and wagged its tail. There was no identification and no one around to claim her. When I put some water in front of her, she lapped it in seconds. The more water I gave, the more she drank. I made a firm, lasting, and immediate decision between refills: this dog was coming with me.
A dog has to have a name, of course, so being that she was small, dark, and dehydrated, I named her Raisin. Not content with just a first name, I added a last: d’Etre. It’s a small play on the French “raison d’etre,” but it’s true, too: Raisin is a purpose larger than myself.
This impromptu adoption soon created several complications. We couldn’t enter restaurants together, nor grocery stores, nor many motels. Raisin overheats easily and can’t hike in the middle of the day, and if she’s tired, I have to carry her.
So what do I do? I lug.
Raisin has opened my eyes to some of the smaller wonders of this trek. She chases butterflies and birds and barks at horses, cows, and antelope. At times, when cars are rare, she walks the white line of the road because it’s the coolest place around. When we arrived at the shallow waters of the Rio Grande, she ran sprintingup and down the shore, happy to be on sand.
After nearly 300 miles of hiking together, we showed up at the Terlingua Ghost Town porch. A bastion of old-style society, the porch is a safe space for locals and strangers to sit and mingle. At about 70 feet long and 10 feet wide, it accommodates a hefty number of folks.
I
frowned when I saw the “No Dogs on the Porch” sign. I had hoped that, if anywhere, my pup and I would be welcome in the far flung regions of Big Bend country. As it turns out, the sign was more of a deterrent than a strict rule, mainly because no one cares to enforce it.
Raisin and I were the first to sit on the porch that day. As people arrived, she put on a show, welcoming strangers with the wagging of her entire body. Though still only a puppy, Raisin seems to have memorized the phrase, “Oh, isn’t she cute!” and doubles her body gyrations at the sounds. I’m a little jealous of the attention she gives others, but she makes me smile, nonetheless.
Dogs are important here in the desert, both for company and security. People seem to know the names of all the local dogs. There’s even a homeless dog named Brown Dog that belongs to no one but manages to hang on
by bumming food and rides off locals. Everyone knows him. People have woken up to find Brown Dog in their beds, not understanding how he got there or even how he opened the door.
The desert is not an ideal place for a puppy, but Terlingua has proven to be an oasis. In our short time, people I don’t even know by name know who Raisin is. She’s accepted here, a welcome diversion from the heat, bearing the common story of a traveler just passing through.
And so we move on, as is our purpose, six feet making scattered steps across these barren lands. We don’t know what lies ahead, but we are married to it anyway, finding comfort where it can be found, water where it can be had, and love baked in the desert sun.
Smatt is the penname of S.Matt Read. A writer, inventor, baker, and hiker, he is currently hiking the entire outline of the state. Follow his adventure here and
at and .
The Texas Perimeter Hike — Installment #9
“The local law enforcement is now advising people to have guns. Well, it’s about time.”
— Fort Hancock resident to me, paraphrased
In leaving El Paso, I opted to loop west and south so I could walk directly by the border fence. I had been advised by an El Paso border agent to stay as far
from the fence as possible, but I didn’t come all this way only to avoid sneaking a peek.
The fence is a massive, imposing structure, so big in fact that there should be an upgrade in vocabulary as between ‘sign’ and ‘billboard.’ I walked alongside a highway – the mega-fence on the other side – hoping this buffer zone would be sufficient enough to prove my citizenship. Little did I know that my first test would have little to do with buffers and metal dividers.
As I continued, I crossed the main passage between El Paso and Juarez. A traffic jam had occurred, and there was a cacophony of car honking. Above the cars, the inspection station, and the bridge was an enormous Mexican flag moving slowly in the strong wind, an ever-changing contour map of highs and lows.
When I got to Fort Hancock, I started hearing firsthand accounts of border woes. These stories had an altogether different tenor than the ones I heard from the interior of the state. I met one fellow who had a 9mm strapped to his waist and admitted that he frequently made citizen’s arrests, then called the border patrol. I was told that one family had
made 500 arrests in three years, and though unsubstantiated, the rumor brings to mind the kind of influx residents are facing.
You might be wondering how a backpacker like me can navigate these communities given that a good amount of foot travel in the area is illegal. I wondered the same thing. When I was passing my first checkpoint on Highways 62/180, I met a lot of border agents and explained my project. I talked with so many, in fact, that as I was hiking the next day some border agents waved and honked. This isn’t going to be so hard, I thought.
This, I found, was premature.
On my way out of Fort Hancock, I took a short break under a large cottonwood. I hadn’t been there ten minutes when I saw a border patrol jeep pass, then do a U-turn. I knew what was coming. The agent came and asked the usual questions, but when he asked if I had a criminal history, I tried to think if I had any outstanding traffic violations. He took my hesitation as guilt and for the remainder of our interaction, things went, as it were, south.
The agent asked for my ID and spoke to me like I was two minutes away from being busted. To say that his demeanor was merely unpleasant would be a compliment. While my background check was processing, he asked
if I would consent to having my bag inspected. What?! This question caught me completely off guard. I blubbered a bit, insulted at how far things had gone, but ultimately declined to give consent. My ID cleared, and the guy was silently incredulous. He was done with me.
This encounter, the conversations in Fort Hancock, and a gargantuan fence all point toward the greater truth of the region. Life seems normal enough, with the coming and going of people and cars and the quiet hours of rural Texas, but it is far from picturesque. The nighttime lights may shine as one huge clump of humanity, but when the sun comes up, the fence – both metal and human – remains as a testament to the darkness.
Smatt is the penname of S.Matt Read. A writer, inventor, baker, and hiker, he is currently hiking the entire outline of the state. Follow his adventure here and at www.texasperimeterhike.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/perimeterhiker.
The Texas Perimeter Hike: Installment #8
“In a way, all of us have an El Guapo to face someday. For some, shyness might be their El Guapo. For others, a lack of education might be their El Guapo. For us, El Guapo is a big, dangerous guy who wants to kill us. But as sure as my name is Lucky Day, the people of Santa Poco can conquer their own personal El Guapo who also happens to be the actual El Guapo.” — Excerpt from The Three Amigos
While I was passing through the quiet town of Enochs, a truck with three men pulled over beside me. Having clearly been elected the spokesperson, the nearest fellow used a sublime mixture of eloquence, subtlety, and wit to address me in conversation. His command of the English language was great, his words delicately chosen.
“What the hell are you doing?” he asked.
We talked, the four of us, about what I was doing. After covering the basics of food, water, and shelter, our talk turned to El Paso and the US-Mexico border. Like chips at a Mexican restaurant, a border story is usually followed by another and another, each one as hot as the last.
I remember one about a friend of theirs, a hunter. The guy got in his deer blind early one morning, felt something different in the small space, but didn’t want to shine a light to see what it was. When the sun came up and his luck ran out with wild game, he turned his attention to the object he had felt earlier. It was a metal box, though he hadn’t remembered leaving it. He lifted the lid, then shut it. The box was filled with cocaine.
I don’t vouch for the tale’s authenticity. But the men touched upon a fear that’s been getting closer and closer ever since I left Corpus Christi. To borrow Lucky Day’s words, El Paso had become my El Guapo.
Fast forward to a few evenings ago. My panhandle tour in its final days, I walked out of the plains and into the desert landscape of West Texas. I camped out underneath a mesquite tree on a slope slightly beneath the level of the road. As the sunlight faded and a plethora of bugs and birds made a few last minute flights, I waited for the sky to fill with stars. Then I saw headlights.
At an intersection
I had passed not half a mile prior, a car stopped. The driver could have been doing anything – consulting a map, picking up
his cell phone, looking for a tissue in the backseat of the car – but with the veil of a dozen border stories clouding my vision I could think of only a single explanation: drugs.
When
another vehicle approached in the distance, the car in question took off. The driver didn’t peel out, but he seemed intent on making a getaway. I ducked down as he passed. It had the feel of a close call, and though nothing had happened, I left early the next morning.
I continued south to the lower left of the panhandle, trying to find the corner marker. What I found instead were the remnants of a survey site, a pile of cement chunks marked by a fading sign. Hidden in the jumble, I noticed something more, a canister. Good lord, it was even covered in camouflage tape. I reached for it, unscrewing the lid slowly.
No coke.
It was a geocache, a hobby-box for “treasure” seekers, filled with the signatures of people who, like me, were looking for the corner. I signed the register and left.
The way I’ve acted, you’d think I was already on the Rio Grande, but it’s actually a couple of weeks away. These infamous border tales which currently share an edge with my imagination will soon be very real. My name’s not Lucky Day either. I will be careful; I will be quiet; I shall overcome my fear.
Smatt is the penname of S.Matt Read. A writer, inventor, baker, and hiker, he is currently hiking the entire outline of the state. Follow his adventure here and at www.texasperimeterhike.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/perimeterhiker.
The Texas Perimeter Hike — Weather Woes
“I’m still in the tarp. It’s still raining. It’s still windy. Everything’s freezing… still. And now I have to use the restroom. And [I don’t mean] pee.” — The author’s audio journal entry from Jan. 28, 2010
Perhaps the most common
question I receive about my trip is “Where do you sleep?” When I reply, it’s like being an accident on the side of the road with all the rubbernecks watching. With my backpack extending from my
waist to the back of my neck, people already know the answer. Many start grimacing before I even start to respond. But like a lover with solid evidence of a transgression, they just want to hear me say it.
I camp. Out there.
It’s the latter phrase that gets people. While I have stayed with family, friends, and in the occasional hotel, I’ve camped about 80% of the time. In the beginning of the trek, I was a little embarrassed to admit this. I had never camped on roadsides before and wasn’t even entirely sure about the legality of it. I was slow to realize it’s not the legality that people are curious about. It’s mainly the getting eaten or killed.
Animals, weather, other people. These are the fears of my inquiring public. I could also throw in the U.S.-Mexico border, but since it’s another thousand miles to El Paso, I’ll put
that one on hold. I can’t control any of these things living as I am on the road, but then I can’t control them living in a city either. However, I can be smart about them.
If I’m doing my job, you will never see me leave the road in the evening, nor reenter it the next morning. I prefer wooded areas but will make due with what I have. I have seen homemade NO TRESPASSING signs, and I take those and all other kinds very seriously. In some cases, my assessment of a potential risk means having to walk several more miles. I once hiked 16 miles on top of 16 I had already done because I didn’t feel safe.
I’ve also made some adventurous camping decisions, like walking straight into a forecasted ice storm. While not exactly smart, I nonetheless wanted to experience the weather. Did I really come all this way only to sit out the Panhandle fun?
This camping tale is particularly memorable. When I left Quanah, Texas, I was pumped up, fat on food and high on hospitality, and no little ice storm was going to rain me out of a good time. I made it about halfway to Childress and, obeying all of my general camping rules, found a nice spot close to the train tracks and away from the road.
I set up my tarp like an open-ended tent, staked it down, and rolled out my sleeping bag. The day had been bright and sunny, and the nighttime wasn’t all that different. I ate some snacks and went to bed.
It was good sleeping until 2:30 a.m.
I should have known the gig was up when the wind started ripping my stakes out of the ground. I fought that storm about 10 hours for my dry little space, but the winds, rains, and ice all conspired to kick me out. I eventually had to relieve myself, which is a terrible situation to be in while camping in a storm. However, seeing the state of my tarp from the outside was enough to convince me to pack up.
I walked 15 miles to Childress in that storm. When I finally reached a hotel, I was covered in ice.
So, yes, I camp. Out there. Though this icy episode may sound terrible, I was in high spirits the entire time. I’m not kidding. I may have lost my dry little space to the storm, but when I finally took my pack and coat off, the ice shattered and fell to the floor. All that remained was me.
Smatt is the penname of S.Matt Read. A writer, inventor, baker, and hiker, he is currently hiking the entire outline of the state. Follow his adventure here and at and . The perimeter is about 3,000 miles long and has likely never been hiked before. The hike started at Corpus Christi and is going clockwise. It began in August 2009 and is expected to be completed in July 2010.
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American Psychological Association (APA) Design Bonn, S. Psychology Today. Notice you will find no supports around the URL. Since an article is a typical structure, that you do not require a format information class. Drop-down two traces after your bibliographic citation and start your annotation. Preserve the entire paragraph indented to be flush together with your hanging indent, and do not increase an extra indentation for the first-line of the passage. Continue reading
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Installment No. 11
“I am twenty miles or more from the nearest fellow human, but instead of loneliness I feel loveliness.”
— Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire
I have learned to enjoy being by myself, welcoming chance conversations where they might be found, but I wasn’t always so comfortable. The beginning of this trip was a misery. Those early days and weeks came attached with a profound societal rejection of my station. I was a bum, a pariah, someone to avoid. Though I put on my best face in interactions, I saw the fear in people’s eyes, the anxiety in their movements, the open disdain, the pity. Though this was far from a universal reaction, I hadn’t anticipated its everyday occurrence and was forcibly ushered into a kind of solitude I hadn’t been prepared to handle. Coupled with my own insecurities about life and the immensity of my hiking goal, I’d never felt more needy and alone.
Solitude isn’t meant to be like this. While it can lend itself to loneliness, over-reflection, or boredom, its allure lies in its tranquility and equilibrium. I started my trek wildly off balance, but as my experience and confidence have grown, I’ve come to accept my time alone. I also attribute some of this stability to the countless supportive and nice people I’ve met along the way as well as my puppy Raisin who licks me several times a day.
A couple of weeks ago, I had the chance to walk over 120 miles in Big Bend National Park. The summers are scorchers in West Texas, and some points in the south of the park regularly reach temperatures above 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of the heat, the park’s attendance is sparse, and we had the place to ourselves. However, Raisin couldn’t accompany me on any hiking trails, so I temporarily turned her over to a dogsitter.
I was alone again.
The Chihuahuan Desert, a sandy, cactus-filled, and usually dry area is not the best place to experiment with the merits of solitude. It regularly humbles the strongest of athletes, and a simple bad decision can be a traveler’s undoing. Like many a nimrod before me, I charged into the wilderness, aware of the dangers but unconcerned, like that stuff couldn’t possibly happen to me.
And it didn’t. But I paid a price nonetheless.
I drank water from mud puddles. I crossed a high trail near Mariscal Canyon and ended up getting blown into a cactus. I attempted to hike 40 miles in a day, and several times nearly wobbled off the trail due to fatigue. I disturbed a mean-looking rattlesnake and shortly thereafter intruded upon a couple of bears scrounging for dinner.
On the
fourth day, I sat high up on the South Rim of the Chisos Mountains and looked across the land. It was still morning, cool and crisp at 7,000 feet, the trees lending a fragrance not found in the desert below. In the distance I saw my starting point and followed the sandy, dusty contours from west to east,
then northwest to where I was sitting.
I hadn’t seen a soul in three days, but I didn’t feel alone. I didn’t even consider my solitude. I was only aware of my immediate world – birds chirping, a light breeze, the sweet air, calm – and that I was there in it, feet dangling in the loveliness.
Smatt is the penname of S.Matt Read. A writer, inventor, baker, and hiker, he is currently hiking the entire outline of the state. Follow his adventure here and at www.texasperimeterhike.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/perimeterhiker.
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Check out The Long Way Home at www.texasperimeterhike.blogspot.com! Also, check
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